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Los tejidos en las cantigas gallego-portuguesas: nuevas lecturas

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    Statement of Responsibility:
    Vallín, Gema
    Main Author:
    Vallín, Gema

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    Format:
    Journal article
    Language:
    Spanish; Castilian
    Form / Genre:
    text (article)
    Published:
    2022
    In:
    Revista de Cancioneros Impresos y Manuscritos ISSN 2254-7444 Nº. 11, 2022, pags. 299-321
    Subjects:
    Annotation:

    The Galician-Portuguese cantigas are an important source of knowledge of the medieval fabrics used for men's and women's clothing in the 13th century and the first half of the 14th century. This article surveys texts where such fabrics are mentioned and takes into account the symbolic and referential value that the troubadours give the fabrics. These lyric poems have documentary and historical value regarding the age of the mentioned fabrics and the garments that were made from them. Moreover, certain terms that could refer to little-documented fabrics, terms that seem badly copied in the manuscripts, are given new readings. Thus, we offer a more detailed study of the cantiga «En este son de negrada», which is part of the extensive song cycle in which the Galician troubadour Lopo Lias mocks certain knights of Lemos under the pretext that tehey were always badly dressed. The cantiga is the most unique of the cycle, both for its stanza form and its rhetorical construction. It is of special interest here because it presents a term that has not been documented to date: «soçeri». The term seems to refer to a type of fabric. Given the context in which the term is used, it can be inferred that the term might constitute a misreading of the medieval codices, and it refers to a silk fabric of Persian manufacture, which appears documented at the time with a large number of lexical variants, which have been collected by Gual Camarena and Corriente under the headword «Doxtoni».


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